How to Produce Novelty? Creating, Borrowing, Modifying, Repeating And Forgetting: The Process of Contemporary Fashion Aesthetics

Ruhan Liao

Abstract


The aesthetics of fashion can be regarded as the aesthetics of novelty since constant changes make novelty the core of fashion. Based on Colin Campbell’s theory, novelty is a judgment about our subjective experiences, indicating something we never experienced before. In the early stage of the fashion system, designers led fashion trends by creating brand-new items or borrowing foreign elements. Then, as the pace of fashion circulation increased, designers started to produce novelty by modifying details, or by repeating what was in fashion long before. Hence, fashion became cyclical. And the cycle duration would become shorter and shorter as the repetition sped up. At this stage, novelty is not based on whether the item is brand-new, but whether we still remember it. In the future, maybe the repeating of the old cannot maintain the feeling of novelty any more since the pace of fashion change is too quick to give enough time for the new to become old and forgotten. At that time, the novelty will not be based on whether we still remember it, but whether we want to forget it. Therefore, with the acceleration of fashion change, the method of how fashion produces novelty has gone through a logical sequence as follows: creating something brand-new, borrowing foreign elements, modifying details, repeating the forgotten old, and forgetting what is still new. Novelty has gone through a process from ‘externally determined’ to ‘internally determined’, moving to the direction of ‘self-deception determined’.

 

Article received: April 20, 2019; Article accepted: June 15, 2019; Published online: September 15, 2019; Original scholarly paper

How to cite this article: Ruhan, Liao. "How to Produce Novelty? Creating, Borrowing, Modifying, Repeating And Forgetting: The Process of Contemporary Fashion Aesthetics." AM Journal of Art and Media Studies 19 (2019): 101-107. doi: 10.25038/am.v0i19.310


Keywords


aesthetics; change; fashion; novelty; subjective experience

Full Text:

PDF

References


Baudrillard, Jean. For a Critique of the Political Economy of the Sign, translated by Charles Levin. St. Louis, Mo.: Telos Press, 1981.

Benjamin, Walter. The Arcades Project, translated by Howard Eiland and Kevin McLaughlin. Cambridge, Massachusetts, London: Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 2002.

Campbell, Colin. “The Desire for the New: Its Nature and Social Location as Presented in Theories of Fashion and Modern Consumerism.” In Consuming Technologies: Media and Information in Domestic Spaces, edited by Roger Silverstone and Eric Hirsch, 46–64. London: Routledge, 1994.

Carter, Michael. Fashion Classics: From Carlyle to Barthes. Oxford, New York: Berg, 2003.

Crane, Diana. “Fashion in Science: Does it Exist?” Social Problems 16, 4 (1969): 433–41. doi: 10.2307/799952

Darwin, George H. “Development in Dress.” In Fashion Foundations: Early Writings on Fashion and Dress, edited by Kim K. P. Johnson, Susan J. Torntore, and Joanne B. Eicher, 97–100. Oxford and New York: Berg, 2003.

Hanson, Karen. “Dressing down Dressing up – The Philosophic Fear of Fashion.” Hypatia 5, 2 (1990): 107–21.

Johnson, Kim K. P., Susan J. Torntore, and Joanne B. Eicher, eds. Fashion Foundations: Early Writings on Fashion and Dress. Oxford, New York: Berg, 2003.

Kant, Immanuel. Anthropology from a Pragmatic Point of View, translated by Robert B. Louden. New York: Cambridge University Press, 2006.

Kawamura, Yuniya. The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion. Oxford, New York: Berg, 2004.

Kawamura, Yuniya. Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies. Oxford, New York: Berg, 2005.

Lefebvre, Henri. Introduction to Modernity, translated by John Moore. London, New York: Verso, 1995.

Lehmann, Ulrich. Tigersprung: Fashion and Modernity. Massachusetts, London: The MIT Press, 2000.

Lehmann, Ulrich. “Tigersprung: Fashion History.” In The Power of Fashion: About Design and Meaning, edited by Jan Brand and José Teunissen, 42–66. Arnhem: ArtEZPress, 2006.

Lipovetsky, Gilles. The Empire of Fashion: Dressing Modern Democracy, translated by Catherine Porter. Princeton and Oxford: Princeton University Press, 1994.

Tarde, Gabriel. The Laws of Imitation. New York: Henry Holt and Company, 1903.

Simmel, Georg. “Fashion.” American Journal of Sociology 62, 6 (1957): 541–58.

Sproles, George B. and Leslie Davis, Burns. Changing Appearances: Understanding Dress in Contemporary Society. New York: Fairchild Publications, 1994.

Svendsen, Lars. Fashion: A Philosophy, translated by John Irons. London: Reaktion Books, 2006.




DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.25038/am.v0i19.310

Refbacks

  • There are currently no refbacks.


Copyright (c) 2019 AM Journal of Art and Media Studies

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

The content on this site is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

AM Journal of Art and Media Studies ISSN 2217-9666 - printed, ISSN 2406-1654 - online, UDK 7.01:316.774

Contact: amjournal@outlook.com

Publisher: Faculty of Media and Communications, Singidunum University, Belgrade, Serbia

Indexed in: ERIH PLUSEBSCODOAJ, and in The List of Scientific Journals Categorization of Ministry of Education, Science and Technological Development of Republic of Serbia (M24-2021). Beginning with No. 12 2017, AM is indexed, abstracted and covered in Clarivate Analytics service ESCI.