How to Produce Novelty? Creating, Borrowing, Modifying, Repeating And Forgetting: The Process of Contemporary Fashion Aesthetics

Authors

  • Ruhan Liao

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.25038/am.v0i19.310

Keywords:

aesthetics, change, fashion, novelty, subjective experience

Abstract

The aesthetics of fashion can be regarded as the aesthetics of novelty since constant changes make novelty the core of fashion. Based on Colin Campbell’s theory, novelty is a judgment about our subjective experiences, indicating something we never experienced before. In the early stage of the fashion system, designers led fashion trends by creating brand-new items or borrowing foreign elements. Then, as the pace of fashion circulation increased, designers started to produce novelty by modifying details, or by repeating what was in fashion long before. Hence, fashion became cyclical. And the cycle duration would become shorter and shorter as the repetition sped up. At this stage, novelty is not based on whether the item is brand-new, but whether we still remember it. In the future, maybe the repeating of the old cannot maintain the feeling of novelty any more since the pace of fashion change is too quick to give enough time for the new to become old and forgotten. At that time, the novelty will not be based on whether we still remember it, but whether we want to forget it. Therefore, with the acceleration of fashion change, the method of how fashion produces novelty has gone through a logical sequence as follows: creating something brand-new, borrowing foreign elements, modifying details, repeating the forgotten old, and forgetting what is still new. Novelty has gone through a process from ‘externally determined’ to ‘internally determined’, moving to the direction of ‘self-deception determined’.

 

Article received: April 20, 2019; Article accepted: June 15, 2019; Published online: September 15, 2019; Original scholarly paper

Author Biography

Ruhan Liao

Ruhan Liao
Sichuan Fine Arts Institute, Chongqing
China

Ruhan Liao is a lecturer in the Department of Public Art at Sichuan Fine Arts Institute. She has an MA in fashion design (University of Southampton) and a Ph.D. in aesthetics (Southwest University). Her research lies in the field of fashion, consumerism and contemporary aesthetics. Her doctoral dissertation is about the philosophical thinking of fashion and identity. She has published four articles (all in Chinese) on the semiology of fashion, somaesthetics of fashion, the transition of meanings in Chinese fashion, and the history of fashion aesthetics (the change of the fitting room as a case). Her current research concerns philosophical discourses on fashion, which includes discussions of Kant, Hegel, Simmel, Tarde, etc.

References

Baudrillard, Jean. For a Critique of the Political Economy of the Sign, translated by Charles Levin. St. Louis, Mo.: Telos Press, 1981.

Benjamin, Walter. The Arcades Project, translated by Howard Eiland and Kevin McLaughlin. Cambridge, Massachusetts, London: Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 2002.

Campbell, Colin. “The Desire for the New: Its Nature and Social Location as Presented in Theories of Fashion and Modern Consumerism.” In Consuming Technologies: Media and Information in Domestic Spaces, edited by Roger Silverstone and Eric Hirsch, 46–64. London: Routledge, 1994.

Carter, Michael. Fashion Classics: From Carlyle to Barthes. Oxford, New York: Berg, 2003. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2752/9781847888716

Crane, Diana. “Fashion in Science: Does it Exist?” Social Problems 16, 4 (1969): 433–41. doi: 10.2307/799952 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1525/sp.1969.16.4.03a00040

Darwin, George H. “Development in Dress.” In Fashion Foundations: Early Writings on Fashion and Dress, edited by Kim K. P. Johnson, Susan J. Torntore, and Joanne B. Eicher, 97–100. Oxford and New York: Berg, 2003.

Hanson, Karen. “Dressing down Dressing up – The Philosophic Fear of Fashion.” Hypatia 5, 2 (1990): 107–21. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1527-2001.1990.tb00420.x

Johnson, Kim K. P., Susan J. Torntore, and Joanne B. Eicher, eds. Fashion Foundations: Early Writings on Fashion and Dress. Oxford, New York: Berg, 2003. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2752/9780857854070

Kant, Immanuel. Anthropology from a Pragmatic Point of View, translated by Robert B. Louden. New York: Cambridge University Press, 2006.

Kawamura, Yuniya. The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion. Oxford, New York: Berg, 2004. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2752/9781847888907

Kawamura, Yuniya. Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies. Oxford, New York: Berg, 2005. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2752/9781847888730

Lefebvre, Henri. Introduction to Modernity, translated by John Moore. London, New York: Verso, 1995.

Lehmann, Ulrich. Tigersprung: Fashion and Modernity. Massachusetts, London: The MIT Press, 2000.

Lehmann, Ulrich. “Tigersprung: Fashion History.” In The Power of Fashion: About Design and Meaning, edited by Jan Brand and José Teunissen, 42–66. Arnhem: ArtEZPress, 2006.

Lipovetsky, Gilles. The Empire of Fashion: Dressing Modern Democracy, translated by Catherine Porter. Princeton and Oxford: Princeton University Press, 1994.

Tarde, Gabriel. The Laws of Imitation. New York: Henry Holt and Company, 1903.

Simmel, Georg. “Fashion.” American Journal of Sociology 62, 6 (1957): 541–58. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1086/222102

Sproles, George B. and Leslie Davis, Burns. Changing Appearances: Understanding Dress in Contemporary Society. New York: Fairchild Publications, 1994.

Svendsen, Lars. Fashion: A Philosophy, translated by John Irons. London: Reaktion Books, 2006.

DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.25038/am.v0i19.310 DOI: https://doi.org/10.25038/am.v0i19.310

Downloads

Published

15.09.2019

How to Cite

Liao, R. (2019). How to Produce Novelty? Creating, Borrowing, Modifying, Repeating And Forgetting: The Process of Contemporary Fashion Aesthetics. AM Journal of Art and Media Studies, (19), 101–107. https://doi.org/10.25038/am.v0i19.310