The Aesthetics of Glamour in the Subversive Art of Burlesque

Authors

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.25038/am.v0i28.641

Keywords:

glamour; burlesque; feminism; camp aesthetics; gender identities.

Abstract

This article explores glamour as a complex and contested cultural phenomenon situated at the intersection of aesthetics, gender politics, and feminist critique. While glamour has traditionally been associated with the spectacle of the female body and framed as a patriarchal tool of control, contemporary feminist and queer theories highlight its disruptive potential. Drawing on theoretical frameworks from Laura Mulvey, Judith Butler, Susan Sontag, Naomi Wolf, Deborah Ferreday, and Angela McRobbie, the article examines how glamour operates as a visual code that oscillates between accessibility and unattainability, discipline and emancipation. Special attention is given to the performative practices of neo-burlesque, which reappropriate glamour through parody, exaggeration, and camp aesthetics. Performances by troupes such as The Velvet Hammer, queer reinterpretations of Cabaret, and artists including Perle Noire, Dirty Martini, and Moira Finucane illustrate how glamour becomes a site of negotiation between patriarchal beauty norms and feminist reclamation. In contrast, the highly stylized burlesque of Dita Von Teese highlights the persistence of the traditional glamour aligned with the heterosexual male gaze. By analyzing the inclusivity, gender fluidity, and political agency of neo-burlesque, this study argues that glamour should not be understood as either purely oppressive nor liberating, but as an ambivalent and dynamic practice that continues to evolve in dialogue with feminism, queer theory, and contemporary performance culture.

Author Biography

Katarzyna Ewa Stojičić, Faculty of Dramatic Arts, University of Arts in Belgrade, Belgrade, Serbia

Katarzyna Ewa Stojičič is a cultural studies scholar, researcher, PhD candidate, and lecturer affiliated with the University of Arts (Univerzitet umetnosti) in Belgrade, Republic of Serbia. She is a graduate of the University of Silesia and Jagiellonian University. Her research interests focus on the anthropology of fashion and costume studies.

References

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Butler, Judith. Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity. Routledge, 1990.

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Dodds, Sherril. Dancing on the Canon: Embodiments of Value in Popular Dance. Palgrave Macmillan, 2011. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1057/9780230305656_6

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Ferreday, Deborah. Online Belongings: Fantasy, Affect and Web Communities. Peter Lang, 2008. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3726/978-3-0353-0203-5

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Performances

Dita Von Teese. Martini Glass Show. Performed internationally, first staged in Las Vegas, 2003.

Dita Von Teese. Opium Den. Performed internationally, revival of classic burlesque tableau, 2000s.

Dirty Martini. Fan Dance. New York Burlesque Festival, New York, 2004.

Dirty Martini. Reverse Striptease. Performed at various international burlesque festivals, 2000s–2010s.

Perle Noire. Josephine Baker Tribute. Performed at the New York Burlesque Festival, New York, 2010.

World Famous BOB. One Man Showgirl. Joe’s Pub, New York, 2006.

Moira Finucane. The Burlesque Hour. Melbourne, 2004–ongoing adaptations.

Jett Adore (The Stage Door Johnnies). The Masculine Ideal. Chicago, 2010.

The Velvet Hammer Burlesque. The Velvet Hammer Revue. Los Angeles, 1995–2000s.

Cabaret. Queer reinterpretation, Broadway revival, New York, 2020s.

Dragula. Drag-horror-burlesque performances, created by The Boulet Brothers, Los Angeles/New York, 2016–ongoing.

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Published

15.10.2025

How to Cite

Stojičić, K. E. (2025). The Aesthetics of Glamour in the Subversive Art of Burlesque. AM Journal of Art and Media Studies, (38). https://doi.org/10.25038/am.v0i28.641

Issue

Section

MAIN TOPIC: Bodily Autonomy and Identity Politics: Feminist Approaches in the Era of Global Political Changes